If there’s one thing British designer Kim Jones knows how to do, it’s dress real men – not fashion men, real men – in ultra-desirable, beautifully made clothes that they’ll want to wear time and again.
Even the slightly more outré pieces in his shows for Dior – think organza shirts printed with ink blots, inspired by the work of Japanese artists, and sweaters, painstakingly beaded, produced in collaboration with illustrator Raymond Pettibon – are imbued with a certain wearability.
Take the Tailleur Oblique line of suits that Jones introduced in his first collection, SS19, and has since included in each of his seasonal offerings since.
Inspired by a bias-cut silhouette first introduced by Monsieur Dior in his 1950-51 collection, the double-breasted jackets and wide-legged trousers Jones has created might have a gown-like quality, but they are in fact eminently flattering, utterly simple suits… like pyjamas you’d be happy to wear to a party.
“The suit is Dior’s cornerstone,” Jones told me of the Oblique. “Not wanting to take our loyal customers out of their comfort zone, we have chosen to work on an existing cut, making changes to the length and the shoulders. For new customers, I have added “leisure” suits that are more casual and worked on a new line, called Oblique.”
The next step in Jones’ infiltration of our wardrobes, however, has a more casual bent. This week the designer, Dior’s men’s artistic director introduces the first ever “Essentials” collection and we want every piece of it.
Effectively an array of easy-wearing bomber jackets, simple jeans, denim jackets, neat little sweaters and perfectly cut chinos in shades of black, white, navy blue and grey, it’s the capsule wardrobe to end all capsule wardrobes: as desirable as it is elegant and all the better for it.
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